![]() ![]() This handbrake had an inverted design : if you install it the "classic" way, you will need to push the handle in order to brake, instead of pulling the handle (see photo). A hydraulic handbrake is the effective, long term solution ! When drifting, OE cable handbrakes quickly reach their limit, especially as speeds increase and if your vehicle has larger tyres. Reverse Hydraulic Handbrake Package Specification 12x100 optional fitting (specific for BMW with ABS)ġ x Hydraulic Handbrake Fitting - Male 3/8 UNF to Male 12x100 Convex +€5.99.Choose your master cylinder * Please fill in this field.ġ x Eco Master Cylinder Ø19.1 mm (3/4") - 5/16" UNF Stem +€19.99ġ x Wilwood Master Cylinder Ø15.8 mm (5/8") - 5/16" UNF Stem +€59.99ġ x AP Racing Forged Master Cylinder Ø15.8 mm - 5/16" UNF Stem +€187.99ġ x Input Hydraulic Handbrake Hose in Red - 165 cm +€49.99ġ x Input Hydraulic Handbrake Hose in Black - 165 cm +€49.99ġ x Output Hydraulic Handbrake Hose in Red - 180 cm +€49.99ġ x Output Hydraulic Handbrake Hose in Black - 180 cm +€49.99ġ x Output Hydraulic Handbrake "Line Lock" Hose in Red - 180 cm +€69.99ġ x Output Hydraulic Handbrake "Line Lock" Hose in Black - 180 cm +€69.99.Your handbrake * Please fill in this field.Hope this info gives you some food for thought. I would estimate that it would cost about 500 for this setup and that includes braided hoses throughout. If you wish to go the 'whole hog' then a bias pedal box is the ultimate setup, and of course it comes with the additional cost. Here is an image of my set up on the Rally Golf Your next option would be to fit a separate upright handbrake which operates the hydraulics and leave the standard handbrake on its cables. All parts for this conversion are widely available from many of the rallying outlets. Once again I found this not to be 100% satisfactory so in the end I just unclipped the handbrake cables and plate from the bottom of the handbrake and just ran on the hydraulics, of course remembering to clip it again for road use. This also meets the MOT requirements as there is still a mechanical means operating the rear brakes. The handbrake would still work the hydraulics and if that fails the cable would still operate the rear brakes. A quick solution to this is to loosen off the cables at the handbrake end so the cables are slack. This does work but I've found from prolonged use this does 'jack up' the self adjuster on the rear callipers and eventually starts to bind up the rear brakes. The most common form of installation is to mount the cylinder behind the handbrake and weld a lug on the handbrake to connect to the pushrod of the cylinder. However you do have to be careful on how you operate the hydraulic cylinder. ![]() Then it is just a case of plumbing the hydraulic cylinder into the rear line. If you are still running the bias valve on the rear sub frame it should be okay but if not then you may have to introduce an adjustable bias valve into the rear line, to stop the rears locking up under heavy braking. To fit a hydraulic handbrake you will need to split the front and rears into separate lines, get rid of the standard diagonal split. Hi there, to answer your questions it depends on how serious you are and how much you want (or need) to spend along with your skills. ![]()
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